The first seven days of the puppy at home will determine a large part of the dog it will become. Not because definitive habits are "imprinted" in a week, but because during these days the foundations of **trust**, routine, and emotional security are laid. Let's see how to manage them well, hour by hour.
## Before Arrival: What to Prepare
At least 48 hours before:
- **Dog bed or crate** in a quiet area (not in the kitchen, not at the entrance)
- **Box or fenced area** where you can keep it when you can't supervise (kennel training)
- **Water bowl + food bowl** in stainless steel or ceramic (no plastic)
- **Same food as the breeder/shelter** — changing food is done later, not right away
- **Leash + lightweight collar or adjustable harness** (because it will grow quickly)
- **Age-appropriate toys** (deer hide, puppy kong, sturdy stuffed animals)
- **Blanket with its earlier scent** (if the breeder provides it, it’s gold)
**Puppy-proofing the house:**
- Hidden or protected electric cables
- Toxic plants out of reach (pothos, oleander, poinsettias, lilies — deadly for cats, problematic for puppies)
- Cleaners, medicines, human food in closed cabinets
- Small ingested objects (socks, coins, rubber bands) lifted from the ground
## Day 1: Arrival
**Morning or early afternoon**, ideally at the start of the weekend (so you have more days with him).
1. **Transport crate in the car:** never let the puppy free in the car. If he's scared, have a calm person in the back seat.
2. **Arrived home:** immediately to the garden or designated potty area. **Reward if he pees there** (calm voice, snack or cuddle).
3. **Internal exploration:** let him sniff and move around. Don’t force him, don’t pick him up if he wants to explore.
4. **First night:** the bed close to your bed, or in the crate next to you. It’s the first night away from the litter. Whining and crying are normal. **Don’t pick him up in the bed** (it breaks the rule from the first day and becomes difficult to change). A hand on the crate, calm voice, usually suffices.
**Peeing in the house the first night:** almost inevitable. Clean quietly, **do not scold** (he doesn’t understand and associates your presence with reprimand).
## Days 2-3: The Routine
Start building **fixed schedules**:
- **Meals:** 4 times a day (puppies under 4 months). Same times, same place
- **Peeing:** every 2 hours + always after sleeping, eating, playing. Reward every time he goes outside
- **Sleep:** sleeps **a lot**. A puppy sleeps 18-20 hours a day. Never wake him up to play
- **Play:** short sessions (5-10 minutes), alternated with rest
**"No" command:** introduce it immediately but calmly. Firm voice, not shouted. When he does something he shouldn't, "ah-ah" and redirect his attention to something else (appropriate play). **Never physical punishment.**
## Days 4-5: Names and Basic Commands
At 8-10 weeks, the puppy is in a **critical learning phase**. Start with:
- **His name:** say it only for good things (food, play, cuddles). Never to scold.
- **"Come":** when you call him, always give him a snack when he responds. Create the reflex "my name = good thing".
- **"Sit":** snack above his head, step back slightly, bottom touches the ground → reward. 5 repetitions, 2 times a day.
**Never more than 5 minutes of training at a time.** He gets tired, bored, and regresses.
## Days 6-7: Socialization
The **socialization window** lasts until 14-16 weeks. The more positive contacts (with people, sounds, environments, healthy animals) he has during these weeks, the more balanced he will be for life.
**At 7 days at home, ideally:**
- He has met 3-5 vaccinated and sociable dogs (not at the public shelter, too risky)
- He has heard **various sounds** (vacuum cleaner, doorbell, traffic, children)
- He has met **different people** (bearded men, women in hats, children, seniors)
- He has experienced **different surfaces** (tiles, carpet, grass, sand)
All these encounters must be **positive**. Never forced. Never scolded out of fear. Always with snacks and a sweet voice.
## Vaccinations and Veterinarian
**Puppy visit within the first week** of arrival. Even if the breeder gives you all the certificates. The veterinarian:
- Checks general health
- Verifies vaccination calendar (usually completed at 12-16 weeks)
- Deworming (even if already done by the breeder, according to the protocol)
- Microchip (mandatory)
- Sets up antiparasitics
## Most Common Mistakes of New Owners
1. **Continuous cuddles** = overly dependent puppy. Yes to cuddles, but also time "alone" (in crate, while you are in the next room)
2. **Letting him in bed** from the first day = it becomes almost impossible not to let him sleep there
3. **Physical punishments** or yelling = fearful, anxious dog, future biter
4. **Scolding him after** he has peed in the house = he doesn’t understand; he thinks peeing is wrong, not the place
5. **Waiting to socialize until after completing vaccinations** = too late, critical window closed. There are safe compromises (friends' puppies, safe parks)
## What to Bring Home
The first week is not perfection, it is **building**. Calm, routine, rewards. The puppy learns from you how much and what to trust about the world. If you make a mistake, it can be recovered in the following weeks — you are not in an exam with a final grade. The important thing is to create the feeling: **this is home, these are the people, I am fine here**. Everything else is built over the months.
The puppy arrives at home: the first week, hour by hour
The first 7 days of the puppy at home determine a large part of the dog he will become. What to prepare, how to handle the first nights, mistakes to avoid.