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“My puppy bites everything and everyone, even my hands.” This is the most common complaint from new owners. The good news: it’s **perfectly normal**. The bad news: it must be addressed immediately because it won’t simply “pass on its own.”

Why does he do it

1. Teething

Between **2 and 6 months**, the puppy loses all its teeth. The gums are **painful**. Biting relieves the pain (just like with infants).

2. Exploration

The puppy "sees" the world with its mouth. It touches, tastes, and understands through biting.

3. Play

In nature, puppies play with each other by biting. It’s **communication**: “Let’s play rough!”

4. Excess energy

A bored puppy + not tired = bites everything.

5. Excitement

When very excited, it loses control of its bite (“bite inhibition” to learn).

What NOT to do

❌ Never punish with your hand

Slaps, “taps on the nose” → the puppy associates the human hand with pain. It becomes more aggressive.

❌ Don’t yell

The owner's excitement increases the play. It thinks, “Oh, you’re having fun too!”

❌ Don’t put your hand in its mouth to “make it understand”

It doesn’t understand anything; in fact, it will bite harder.

❌ Don’t leave it because “it will pass on its own”

It won’t pass. It grows up and still bites, but with adult teeth.

❌ Don’t “muzzle” it or “hold its mouth shut”

An old and harmful technique. It causes fear and aggression.

What to do instead

Strategy 1: redirection

When it bites your hand:
  1. **Stop moving** your hand immediately (still things attract less)
  2. **Replace** with an appropriate toy (durable plush, rope)
  3. **Reward** when it bites the toy instead of your hand

Strategy 2: “Ouch!” and end of play

Technique of “hey, you hurt me”:
  1. When it bites you, make a high-pitched sound (“Ouch!”)
  2. Immediately stop playing
  3. Ignore it for 30-60 seconds
  4. Resume when it calms down
The puppy learns: hard bites = end of play.

Strategy 3: time-out

For more serious bites:
  1. When it bites too hard, put it in a crate/closed room for 1-2 minutes
  2. Leave the room yourself if you don't have a crate
  3. Return to it when it is calm, rewarding the calmness

Strategy 4: physical and mental tiredness

A very tired puppy doesn’t bite:
  • Age-appropriate exercise (short walks, play)
  • **Mental stimulation** (puzzles, scent work)
  • **Adequate sleep** (puppies sleep 18-20 hours a day)

Strategy 5: chew toys

Never say “don’t bite anything.” Give them **legitimate alternatives**:
  • Puppy chewers (Nylabone Puppy, Kong puppy)
  • Whole refrigerated carrots (soothe gum pain)
  • Beef skin sticks (no cheap rawhide)
  • Durable plush toys

The "bite inhibition"

The puppy must learn to **control the strength of its bite**. Technique:
  1. Light bite: okay, continue playing
  2. Moderate bite: “Ouch” + short pause
  3. Strong bite: “Ouch” + immediate end of play
In a few weeks, it learns the difference between “play” and “too much.”

Children in the house

Never leave puppies and children alone. Even a playful puppy can hurt a small child. **Constant supervision** + teaching both the dog and the child the mutual rules.

When to consult a trainer

If after 4-6 weeks of attempts:
  • The puppy bites with aggressive intent (not play)
  • Shows growling or resource guarding (food, toys)
  • Bites leave deep marks
  • The owner is afraid
A **qualified trainer** (CSEN, FCC, SIUA) can resolve this in 2-4 sessions.

When to really worry

**Veterinary visit** if the bites are accompanied by:
  • Aggression not related to play (growling, object guarding)
  • Sudden and violent behaviors
  • Tendency to bite the same area repeatedly (could indicate hidden pain)

Key points to remember

Puppy bites are a phase, but they cannot be managed with punishment. Strategy: redirection + “ouch” + time-out + bite alternatives + appropriate exercise. In 4-8 weeks, the problem reduces dramatically. By 6-7 months, with correct bite inhibition, the dog knows how to play without hurting. ```