The cat is not a small dog. It may seem obvious to say it like that, but when it comes to nutrition, it's the most important difference to make. The dog is an omnivore that has adapted to human table scraps for thousands of years. The cat is a strict carnivore — *obligate carnivore* — whose body requires nutrients that are only found in animal tissues.
What does "strict carnivore" mean
The domestic cat is genetically almost identical to the African wildcat (Felis lybica), which eats 8-10 small meals a day made up of mice, birds, lizards, and insects. Each prey is about 70-80% water and provides all the key nutrients in a natural proportion.
In particular, the cat is not able to synthesize:
- Taurine — a fundamental amino acid for the heart, eyes, reproduction
- Arachidonic acid — an essential fat
- Pre-formed Vitamin A (it does not convert beta-carotene)
- Vitamin D from sunlight (unlike us)
All these nutrients are found only in animal tissues. A vegetarian or vegan diet for cats is scientifically impossible without heavy supplementation and is anyway not recommended.
The ideal composition
A proper diet for a domestic cat, in macronutrients, should approach this proportion (on a dry matter basis):
- Animal proteins: 35-50%
- Fats: 15-25%
- Carbohydrates: 1-10% (the cat in nature eats very few)
- Water: high — both introduced from food and from the bowl
Wet food vs kibbles: the key point of hydration
The cat is a desert animal: its thirst reflex is poorly developed. In nature, it gets water mainly from prey (~70-75% moisture). If it only eats kibbles (8-10% moisture) and drinks "when it remembers," it ends up in chronic dehydration — the primary risk factor for kidney and urinary diseases.
The practical rule:
- At least 70% of daily food must be wet (cans, pâté, morsels in gravy)
- Kibbles: okay as a supplement, not as the sole food
- Water should always be available in multiple places, away from the food bowl (natural preference)
- A water fountain encourages more drinking
Homemade food: it can be done, but it needs a plan
Cooking for the cat is possible, but it is much more stringent than for the dog: even a minimal imbalance of taurine, calcium, or vitamin A can cause serious harm in a short time.
A homemade diet must be:
- Developed by a veterinary nutritionist (not by generic blogs)
- Supplemented with minerals and vitamins — meat and rice are not enough
- Balanced in calcium/phosphorus (1.2:1 is ideal)
- Mainly composed of meat, fish, organs (heart, liver in small doses), egg
Meal frequency
Unlike dogs, cats prefer many small meals: 4-6 a day is the natural frequency. Leaving food available all day (ad libitum) only works if the cat can self-regulate — many neutered cats cannot, and they gain weight.
Common mistakes
- Cow's milk — most adult cats are lactose intolerant
- Canned human tuna — too much salt, inconsistent mercury content, lacks added taurine
- Raw fish long-term — thiamine is destroyed by an enzyme in raw fish
- "Meat only" diets without calcium supplements
- Rapid diet changes — the cat gets used to one texture, wants gradual transition (7-14 days of transition)
How to recognize a well-fed cat
- Shiny coat, not greasy and not dry
- Stable weight (monthly check)
- Formed feces, dark, with no strong odor
- Constant energy: plays, explores, regular sleep
- Does not have excessive thirst (a sign of metabolic problems or chronic dehydration)
What really matters
Understanding what a cat eats means accepting that it is a small carnivore, not a mini-omnivorous puppy. All proper nutrition stems from this: plenty of animal protein, plenty of moisture, and very few carbohydrates. It is the model that has allowed it to survive alongside humans for 10,000 years — and it continues to work today.
```
